At a glance
Crazy paving has an unfair reputation as dated or cheap, but done well with quality natural stone it produces a characterful, informal surface that is genuinely difficult to achieve with any other material. Irregular pieces of sandstone, slate, limestone or York stone – whether purpose-bought or salvaged from demolition – are laid in mortar to create a surface where no two sections look the same. The result is a path or patio that looks as though it has always been there, mellowing further with age as moss and lichen establish naturally in the joints and the cut edges soften. It is also the only paving style that genuinely improves in appearance as it weathers, whereas most modern paving materials look their best when new and gradually fade from that point.
The technique is also one of the most forgiving in hard landscaping. Unlike regular rectangular paving where precision cutting and consistent joint widths matter enormously, crazy paving actively benefits from variation. Pieces can be turned, trimmed or repositioned freely to find the best fit, and minor inconsistencies in joint width are part of the aesthetic rather than defects to be corrected. The learning curve is gentle – the first square metre takes longest while the eye adjusts to reading the shapes, but progress speeds up considerably as the technique becomes familiar. The skills required are within reach of most confident DIY gardeners, and the material costs are low compared to other paving options – particularly if reclaimed or salvaged stone is used.
What you’ll need
Choosing your stone
The character of a crazy paving project is determined almost entirely by the stone chosen. Natural stone produces by far the best results – the colour variation, texture and weathering behaviour of real stone cannot be replicated convincingly by concrete alternatives. Sandstone is the most widely available and affordable natural stone option in the UK, available in buff, Indian pink, silver grey and autumn brown colourways from most builders merchants and landscape suppliers. York stone (millstone grit) is the premium option, with a distinctive warm grey-brown colour and exceptional durability that makes it the most sought-after material for period properties and traditional garden settings. It commands a significant price premium over imported sandstone but is increasingly sought for reclamation, making salvage yards a worthwhile first port of call before purchasing new stock.
Thickness matters significantly for crazy paving durability. A minimum of 30mm is recommended for paths and patios used on foot; 40-50mm is preferable for areas that will need to carry any load. Pieces thinner than 25mm are likely to crack under the weight of a person standing on an unsupported edge, and should be discarded before laying regardless of how useful their shape might appear during the dry-lay stage. When buying from a supplier, specify a minimum thickness rather than accepting whatever arrives in the batch, and sort the pieces before starting work, setting aside anything undersized.
Always dry-lay the entire area before mixing any mortar. Arrange all the pieces on the prepared base without mortar, puzzle-fitting them to achieve the best coverage and most natural pattern. Photograph the final arrangement. This takes time but saves far more time than trying to puzzle-fit pieces after mortar has been applied to the base. Trim pieces as needed during this stage using the angle grinder.
Base preparation
Crazy paving requires the same standard of base preparation as any other outdoor paving. A well-prepared base prevents the differential settlement that causes pieces to rock, tip or crack after laying. For paths and patios not subject to vehicle loading, a compacted hardcore sub-base of 100mm followed by a 50mm mortar bed (or a 40mm sharp sand bed for smaller informal paths) is the minimum. For any area subject to vehicle weight, increase the hardcore to 150mm and use a concrete slab as described for other paving types.
The mortar bed for crazy paving is typically applied in sections of around 1 square metre at a time, which allows work to progress at a manageable pace before the mortar begins to stiffen. Lay a 50mm bed of 1:4 mortar (1 part cement, 4 parts sharp sand, mixed to a firm but workable consistency – it should hold its shape when squeezed but not be dry or crumbly). Set each piece of stone from the dry-lay arrangement into the mortar bed and tap firmly into position with the rubber mallet, checking level across adjacent pieces as you go.
Laying and pointing
Work from the dry-lay photograph, lifting pieces one at a time and bedding them in the fresh mortar. Start from a fixed edge or boundary – a garden wall, building line or edging board – and work outward. Set larger pieces first to anchor the layout, then fill the spaces between them with progressively smaller pieces, rotating and flipping each one to find the closest fit before bedding it. Aim for joint widths of 15-40mm – wider than regular paving, but proportionate to the irregular pieces and essential for the pointed finish to key properly into the gap and hold long-term.
Once all pieces in a section are laid and the mortar has firmed up enough not to move (typically 2-4 hours in normal UK conditions), pointing can begin. Mix a slightly stiffer batch of the same 1:4 mortar and press it firmly into the joints using the pointing trowel, working it well down into the gap and finishing flush with or very slightly below the stone surface. The traditional recessed finish – joint mortar sitting 3-5mm below the stone surface – is both more attractive and more durable than flush pointing, as it allows water to drain freely off the stone rather than pooling on the mortar line. Avoid smearing mortar across the stone faces – it stains natural stone and is difficult to remove once set. Keep a damp brush to hand for cleaning up any spillage immediately, as mortar residue that is dealt with while still fresh takes seconds rather than the much more difficult job of removing dried mortar from textured stone surfaces. Leave the pointing to cure for at least 24 hours before foot traffic and 72 hours before any significant loading.
Costs and variations
Crazy paving is one of the most affordable outdoor paving options for UK gardens, particularly when reclaimed or second-hand stone is used. New natural sandstone in random broken pieces costs £20-35 per m2 as supply only; reclaimed York stone salvage can vary from almost free (if sourced from a demolition skip) to £40-60 per m2 from specialist reclamation yards. Searching online marketplaces and local Facebook groups for people clearing old patios or demolishing outbuildings regularly turns up free or very cheap stone in exactly the irregular pieces that crazy paving requires, making this a project where patient sourcing can reduce material costs dramatically. Total DIY costs including hardcore, cement and sand typically come to £30-60 per m2 depending on stone choice, making it significantly cheaper than new porcelain or premium block paving.
Crazy paving works as a design feature alongside other garden elements. A garden steps built from the same stone creates a unified look that ties path surfaces to level changes naturally. For an informal path through a planted area, leaving occasional joints unpainted and allowing creeping plants such as thyme or chamomile to establish between the pieces softens the surface further and is one of the most effective ways to integrate crazy paving into a naturalistic planting scheme.
Share on socials:
