At a glance
A garden fence built correctly by a competent DIYer will last as long as one installed professionally – and the saving is substantial. Professional fence fitting typically costs £80-150 per panel including materials, meaning a 10-panel fence costs £800-1,500 fitted. The same fence built yourself costs £300-500 in materials and a weekend’s work. That’s a saving of £500-1,000 on a standard garden.
The most common reason DIY fences fail isn’t the panels – it’s the posts. Get the posts right and everything else follows. This guide focuses heavily on correct post installation because it’s where the difference between a fence that lasts 20 years and one that falls over in the first storm is made.
Planning rules and boundaries
In England, fences up to 2 metres high can be erected without planning permission under Permitted Development rights – with one important exception. A fence, wall or gate adjacent to a highway (including a public footpath) is limited to 1 metre in height without permission.
Check the boundary before you build. Building a fence on your neighbour’s land is a legal issue that causes serious disputes. If you’re not certain where the boundary lies, check your title deeds (available from Land Registry for £3), and if in any doubt, discuss with your neighbour before starting. A fence built 50mm inside your own boundary is always safer than one built on or over the line.
Choosing fence panels and posts
| Type | Cost per panel | Lifespan | Privacy | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Closeboard/featheredge | £25-45 | 15-20 years | Full | Most durable |
| Lap panel | £15-30 | 10-15 years | Full | Most popular UK choice |
| Trellis top panel | £20-35 | 10-15 years | Partial | Good for climbing plants |
| Picket fence | £15-25 | 10-15 years | None | Front gardens |
| Slatted/horizontal | £40-80 | 15+ years | Full | Modern look |
Post material matters more than panel material for longevity. Options:
- Pressure-treated timber posts – standard choice, 10-15 year lifespan in ground. Always buy posts rated for ground contact (UC4 treatment).
- Concrete posts – virtually indestructible, last the life of the fence. Heavier to work with but worth it for a permanent installation.
- Steel Metposts/fence spikes – driven into the ground rather than concreted in. Quick and easy but less stable in loose or soft soil.
Setting posts correctly
This is where most DIY fences go wrong. The post must be deep enough, plumb (perfectly vertical) and set in concrete that extends above ground level to prevent water pooling around the base.
- 1Mark post positionsStandard fence panels are 1.83m (6ft) wide. Posts go at each end of every panel – so for a 10-panel fence you need 11 posts. Mark each position with a cane before digging anything.
- 2Dig post holes to the correct depthThe rule of thumb is one third of the total post length in the ground. For a 1.8m fence you need 2.4m posts (1.8m above ground plus 600mm below). Use a post hole borer or hire a mechanical auger for multiple holes.
- 3Add gravel to the base of each hole50-100mm of gravel at the bottom of each hole improves drainage around the post base and extends its life significantly.
- 4Set the post plumb and brace temporarilyStand the post in the hole, check it’s perfectly vertical with a spirit level in two directions, then brace with temporary timber props nailed to stakes while the concrete sets. Accuracy here determines how straight the finished fence looks.
- 5Pour concrete and slope the surface away from the postMix postcrete or ready-mix concrete and pour around the post. Critically, slope the concrete surface away from the post at a 45-degree angle to shed rainwater rather than channelling it towards the post base. Allow 24-48 hours to cure before removing braces or attaching panels.
Use postcrete for speed. Postcrete is a rapid-setting concrete that you pour dry into the hole and then add water. It sets in 10-15 minutes rather than the 24+ hours of standard concrete mix. For multiple posts this saves a full day of waiting between posts and materials handling.
Fitting fence panels
Once posts are set and cured, panels attach in one of two ways depending on your post type:
- Timber posts – nail or screw panel arris rails directly to posts, or use galvanised fence panel clips screwed to the post face. Clips are easier and allow panels to be removed for replacement without disturbing the posts.
- Concrete posts – concrete posts have pre-formed slots or channels that panels slide directly into. No fixings needed – the panel sits in the channel.
Always fit a gravel board along the base of each panel. A 150mm x 22mm gravel board sits between the panel and the ground, protecting the panel from ground contact and soil moisture – the main cause of panel rot. Gravel boards cost £5-10 each and double the life of your panels.
Fitting a garden gate
Gates need stronger posts than fence panels – gate posts typically need to be one size larger than fence posts and set at least 750mm deep. The gate should be hung with at least three hinges and fitted with a gate latch and spring closer.
Hang gates with a slight slope towards the latch – this prevents sagging over time as the timber moves with seasonal moisture changes.
Maintenance and treatment
- Apply fence treatment annually – a good quality fence paint or preservative adds years to panel and post life
- Check panel fixings each spring and tighten or replace as needed
- Clear vegetation away from the fence base – plants holding moisture against panels accelerate rot
- Replace individual damaged panels rather than the whole fence when possible
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Building a garden fence correctly is one of the most satisfying and cost-effective DIY projects available to UK homeowners. Get the posts right and the rest is straightforward. For more on what you can build in your garden without planning permission read our guide on garden office planning permission – the same permitted development rules apply to fences, outbuildings and garden offices.
