May is the month when the focus of the UK growing year shifts decisively from sowing to planting out. Indoor-raised plants from February, March and April are now hardened off and ready to go into their final positions, the last frost date passes in most of the country by late May, and the soil is warm enough for direct sowing of virtually every vegetable and herb grown in UK gardens. It is also the last realistic month for several indoor sowings – French and runner beans, sweetcorn, cucumbers and outdoor tomatoes can still be started in early May if not already done, but delay much beyond mid-May and there will not be enough season left for them to crop meaningfully.

The main risk in May is impatience – the urge to plant everything outside as quickly as possible the moment it feels warm. A cold spell in mid-May can still produce ground frosts, particularly in northern England, Scotland and gardens at altitude, and a single cold night can kill tender plants that took weeks to raise. The rule is simple: check the forecast, wait for the last frost date for your area, and harden off properly before planting out. Two weeks of patience in May saves weeks of recovery time or complete replanting later.

Direct sowing outdoors

May direct outdoor sowing – full list
Beans
French and runner
Beetroot
Succession sow
Carrots
Maincrop now
Salads
Every 2 weeks
Sweetcorn
From late May

French and runner beans sown directly outside in late May – after the last frost date – will catch up with April-sown indoor plants by mid-June and produce just as heavy a crop. The soil in late May is warm and these crops establish rapidly. There is no particular advantage to starting them indoors in April if you are happy to sow outdoors in May – they simply do not need the extended indoor period that tomatoes and peppers require. Sow French beans 5cm deep and 15cm apart. Runner beans need a supporting structure of at least 2 metres in place before or at sowing time.

Sweetcorn direct sown in late May – once soil temperature is reliably above 10°C – establishes as well as indoor-raised plants and avoids the root disturbance of transplanting. Sow 2.5cm deep in a grid pattern, 45cm apart each way, and thin to the strongest seedling. The block pattern is essential for sweetcorn as it relies on wind pollination between neighbouring plants – long narrow rows pollinate poorly and produce gappy cobs. Minimum block size for reliable pollination is 16 plants.

Last indoor sowings of the season

Last chance – sow by mid-May
Tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, squash. Anything not already started is now urgent. A mid-May sowing of tomatoes will still crop but the season will be short – choose fast-maturing cherry varieties rather than large beefsteaks.
Still time for these in May
Basil indoors, Florence fennel, second sowing of brassicas for autumn and winter use, late lettuce under cover, autumn-cropping salad leaves and autumn cabbages – all can start in May for harvests from August onwards.
Too late for these
Onions from seed, leeks for this season, celery and celeriac, aubergines and peppers if not already at good size. These all needed a January or February start to produce well in the current season.
Thinking ahead to autumn
May is the right time to sow kale, purple sprouting broccoli and autumn cabbages for planting out in July. These will be harvested from October through to spring, extending the productive garden well beyond summer.

Planting out after frost

Planting out order – after last frost has passed
Crop
When to plant out
Key note
Tomatoes
After last frost
Harden off first, plant deep – up to lowest leaves
Courgettes and squash
After last frost
Space 90cm apart – they are much larger than they look
Pelargoniums and bedding
After last frost
Container displays can go out from late May in most areas
Brassicas from March sowing
Any time in May
Hardy – frosts not a concern, net against cabbage white butterfly
Cucumbers
Into cold greenhouse
Need at least unheated greenhouse protection – too tender for outdoor UK growing
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Herbs and flowers in May

1
Basil – sow outdoors from late May
Basil is the most cold-sensitive herb grown in the UK and must not go outside until night temperatures are reliably above 10°C. Late May is the earliest sensible outdoor date in the south. Sow in a sheltered, sunny position in well-drained soil. Cover with a cloche for the first few weeks to warm the soil and protect from cold nights.
2
Hardy herbs – dill, coriander, chervil
These can be scattered directly where they are to grow throughout May – they prefer direct sowing to transplanting as they resent root disturbance. Dill and fennel will self-seed prolifically if allowed to flower, giving a continuous supply. Coriander bolts quickly in heat – choose slow-bolt varieties like Leisure or Calypso and sow in partial shade.
3
Annual flowers – last call for summer blooms
Nasturtiums, sunflowers, marigolds, cosmos and zinnias can all be sown directly outside in May with good results – they are fast-growing and will reach flowering size by July. Nasturtiums and sunflowers in particular are extremely easy from direct May sowing and need virtually no attention once established.
4
Cut flower crops for summer and autumn
Rudbeckia, scabious, ammi majus, didiscus and late-sown sweet peas can all go into a cutting patch in May. These will flower from August onwards and extend the cutting garden season well into autumn. Direct sow where they are to grow or sow in modules for transplanting in June.

Brassicas sown in March and now ready to plant out in May require netting immediately at transplanting. Cabbage white butterflies are active from May onwards and will lay eggs on unprotected brassica plants within days of planting. The caterpillars that hatch can strip a plant completely within a week. Fine mesh insect netting supported on hoops provides complete protection and is far more effective than inspecting leaves for eggs and picking off caterpillars by hand, which is both time-consuming and easy to miss. Net before the butterflies find the plants rather than reactively after the first damage appears. The same netting also prevents cabbage root fly, which lays eggs at soil level around brassica stems – a worthwhile additional benefit.

Runner beans planted out in late May in a prepared position with a solid support structure already in place will be producing pods by late July. The support structure needs to be in place before planting – trying to install canes around established plants is awkward and risks damaging roots. Traditional wigwam or A-frame structures using 2.4m canes are standard, but a simple horizontal wire system attached to posts works equally well and can support a longer row. Runner beans need consistent watering once they begin to flower – irregular watering at flowering stage causes flower and pod drop, which is one of the most common causes of disappointing yields. Mulching around the base after planting reduces moisture loss significantly and suppresses weeds that compete for the same resources.

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Plant tomatoes deep – deeper than they came in the pot. Unlike most plants, tomatoes can develop roots from their stems. Burying the plant up to its lowest set of leaves when planting out produces a much more extensive root system, which means better drought tolerance, more efficient nutrient uptake and stronger plants overall. Remove the lower leaves, dig a deep hole and plant the stem rather than just the root ball. It is one of the simplest and most effective things you can do for tomato performance.

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Slow release fertiliser granules

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~£10

View on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Prices correct at time of publishing.