At a glance
Winterising a UK garden is one of those tasks that is easy to put off until it suddenly feels too late. The good news is that autumn preparation is straightforward, does not take long and pays dividends across the following year – protected plants survive to perform again, mulched soil is biologically active and weed-suppressed through winter and well-maintained tools are ready to use when spring arrives. A methodical afternoon in October or November is all it takes.
The UK climate means winterising is less dramatic than in colder continental climates – most established hardy plants need no protection at all – but the tender plants, the vulnerable containers and the structural elements of the garden all benefit from some attention before the worst weather arrives. This guide works through each area of the garden in a logical order.
Beds and borders
The most important winter preparation job for beds and borders is mulching. A 5-10cm layer of well-rotted compost, bark chip or garden compost applied to bare soil in autumn does several things simultaneously – it insulates the soil and roots of plants, suppresses winter weeds, adds organic matter and soil biology, and prevents soil compaction and erosion from heavy winter rainfall.
Cut back dead herbaceous perennials to ground level once the top growth has died back after the first frosts – though leaving some seedheads standing through winter provides food for birds and winter structure in the border. Lift and store dahlia tubers after the first blackening frost, drying and storing them in a frost-free shed. In mild southern gardens they can often be left in the ground under a thick mulch. Plant spring bulbs – tulips, daffodils, alliums – from October through November, giving them the cold period in the ground they need to flower well.
Do not cut back ornamental grasses in autumn. Ornamental grasses provide some of the best winter garden structure and wildlife habitat. Their dried stems and seed heads look attractive through winter and provide shelter for overwintering insects. Cut them back hard to ground level in late February or early March when new growth begins to emerge at the base.
Tender plants and containers
Tender plants – those that will not survive frost – need to come inside before the first frost of autumn. In most of England and Wales this typically arrives between October and November, though this varies significantly by year and location.
Lawn care
The lawn needs minimal active management in winter but there are two important rules. Stay off the lawn when it is frozen or heavily waterlogged – walking on frozen grass breaks the leaf cells and leaves yellow footprint-shaped patches that take weeks to recover. Do not apply fertiliser in winter – nitrogen applied to dormant grass encourages soft, disease-prone growth and is largely wasted.
The main autumn task is the final mow of the season at a slightly higher cutting height – around 4cm rather than the summer height of 2.5-3cm. This leaves the grass with some leaf surface to photosynthesise through mild periods and reduces the risk of fungal disease in damp conditions. Autumn is also the time for lawn aeration – spiking or hollow-tining to relieve compaction before winter sets in.
Tools and equipment
Winter is the time to service and store garden tools properly. Tools stored dirty and wet rust and deteriorate through winter. An hour spent on tool maintenance in November saves money on replacements and means everything is in perfect condition when spring work begins. Clean soil and debris from all hand tools, spades, forks and hoes. Wipe metal surfaces with linseed oil or WD-40 to prevent rust. Sharpen hoes, spades and secateurs – a sharp tool is easier and safer to use and a whetstone or file is all that is needed for most garden tools.
Service the lawn mower before storage – drain or stabilise petrol in petrol models, clean the deck, check the blade and oil level. Store hoses and irrigation equipment indoors: residual water in hosepipes freezes and cracks fittings. Drain and store in a frost-free shed.
Structures and water features
Timber structures – sheds, fences, decking, raised beds – benefit from an annual treatment with a quality preservative in autumn when the wood is dry. Apply timber preservative or decking oil before the persistent wet weather of winter makes application impossible. Check all fence posts for stability and repair any loose or rotten posts before winter winds put them under stress.
If you have a garden pond, the water surface should not be allowed to freeze completely for extended periods as this prevents the escape of gases that can harm fish. A pond de-icer or ball float left on the surface keeps a small area ice-free. Never break ice by hitting it – the shockwave can kill fish. Pour hot water gently onto the surface instead.
Winter wildlife
A well-winterised garden is also a more wildlife-friendly one. Leaving some seedheads standing provides food for finches and sparrows. A log pile in a corner creates habitat for hedgehogs, beetles and other overwintering species. Leaving fallen leaves in sheltered corners rather than clearing every one provides insulation for ground-dwelling insects. The most wildlife-friendly winter garden is not necessarily the tidiest one.
Ensure bird feeders are cleaned and restocked as natural food sources diminish through winter. Fresh water is equally important and often harder for birds to find than food during hard frosts when water sources are frozen solid.
Share on socials:
