Lacewings are among the most effective natural pest controllers available to any UK gardener, yet they are far less well known than bees or butterflies and rarely deliberated catered for. The larvae of common green lacewings are voracious predators that feed almost exclusively on soft-bodied insects – aphids, thrips, whitefly, spider mites and the eggs and young larvae of a wide range of garden pests. A single lacewing larva can consume several hundred aphids before it pupates. Unlike sprays or physical controls, lacewing larvae work continuously throughout the day and night, seeking out prey actively rather than waiting for contact.

Adults are nectar and pollen feeders, requiring flower sources to sustain themselves through the season. This means that a garden can support lacewings at both life stages with the right combination of flowering plants for adults and undisturbed sheltered spots for eggs, larvae and overwintering pupae. The investment required is modest – a patch of umbellifers, some hollow-stemmed or rough-barked overwintering shelter, and a reduction in the kind of intensive autumn tidying that removes the sites lacewings depend on for winter survival.

Why lacewings matter in the garden

The pest control value of lacewing larvae is disproportionate to the size and visibility of the insects themselves. Adult lacewings are delicate, slow-moving and largely nocturnal – easy to overlook and easy to dismiss as incidental visitors. But each adult female lays hundreds of eggs over her lifespan, placing them individually on stalks above aphid colonies so the hatching larvae drop directly into their food source. When lacewing populations are established in a garden, aphid pressure on roses, beans, brassicas and soft fruit is visibly and consistently lower than in gardens without them – not because lacewings eliminate every aphid but because they are present throughout the season, consuming infestations before they build to damaging levels.

Lacewing pest control – what larvae eat
Prey
Garden impact
Control level
Aphids
Primary food. Consumed at colony level throughout season
High
Whitefly
Larvae and eggs taken. Significant on brassicas and tomatoes
High
Thrips
Larvae and nymphs consumed. Reduces scarring on fruit and flowers
Moderate
Spider mites
Eggs and adults taken. Useful on strawberries and beans
Moderate
Scale insects
Young crawlers taken. Less effective against established colonies
Low-moderate

Lacewings are also valuable as part of a broader beneficial insect community. Where lacewings are present in numbers, other predatory insects tend to follow – the aphid populations that lacewing larvae depend on also attract parasitic wasps, ground beetles and hoverfly larvae, all of which contribute to the same natural pest management system. Building a garden that supports lacewings is not a narrow intervention but a contribution to a self-reinforcing ecological community that becomes more effective over time as populations establish and diversify.

Lifecycle and identification

There are over 18 species of lacewing native to the UK, but the one most commonly seen in gardens is the common green lacewing, Chrysoperla carnea. Adults are immediately recognisable – delicate pale green insects with large, intricate, heavily-veined wings held tent-like over the body at rest. The wings have a golden iridescence in certain light and the eyes are conspicuous copper-gold. Adults are around 12-15mm long and are often the species found sheltering indoors in autumn and winter as they seek overwintering sites in leaf litter, tree bark and hollow stems.

Common green lacewing – lifecycle
Egg
Laid singly on fine silken stalks above aphid colonies. Pale green or white. Hatch within 4-7 days depending on temperature. Stalk positioning keeps eggs out of reach of ground predators.
Larva
Aggressive predators with large hollow jaws. Brown, grey or mottled. 3 instars over 2-3 weeks. Some species disguise themselves with the bodies of their prey. Up to 200 aphids per larva per week at peak feeding.
Pupa
Spun in a silken cocoon on plant stems, bark or in leaf litter. Whitish-green globe, 4-6mm. Overwinters as pupa or adult depending on species and conditions. 1-3 generations per year in UK.
Adult
Nectar, pollen and honeydew feeders. Pale green, 12-15mm, golden eyes. Nocturnal fliers – attracted to light at night. Overwinter in sheltered sites – often indoors. Active April to October.

The larva is the life stage responsible for pest control and the one that benefits most directly from garden management decisions. Larvae are active hunters that patrol plant stems and leaves, using their large sickle-shaped jaws to seize prey. They go through three larval instars over approximately two to three weeks before spinning a pupal cocoon. In warm seasons with high aphid pressure, a garden can support two to three complete generations of lacewings between April and October – meaning populations can increase substantially within a single season if conditions are right.

💡

Lacewings found indoors in autumn are not pests – they are overwintering. Common green lacewings frequently enter houses and sheds in late September and October, seeking sheltered sites for winter. They do not feed, breed or cause damage indoors. If one is found indoors in winter, leave it or move it gently to an unheated shed, garage or outbuilding where it can complete its dormancy undisturbed. They will leave naturally when temperatures rise in spring.

Plants that attract lacewings

Adult lacewings feed on nectar, pollen and the honeydew excreted by aphids and other plant-sucking insects. They are drawn to flowers with open, accessible structures – umbellifers, composites and other shallow-nectaried species. The combination of open flowers for adult feeding and the presence of aphid colonies as both adult food (via honeydew) and larval prey makes certain plant combinations particularly effective at establishing lacewing populations. A border that includes fennel, dill, angelica and marigolds alongside plants that naturally attract aphids – such as nettles and nasturtiums – provides everything a lacewing needs at both life stages within a small area.

Best plants for attracting lacewings
Plant
Benefit
Why it works
Fennel
Adult nectar
Large flat-topped umbellifer. Flowers July-September. Highly attractive to lacewings and hoverflies alike.
Dill
Adult nectar
Annual umbellifer, easy to sow in succession. Flowers quickly and supports lacewings from June onward.
Phacelia
Adult nectar
Open blue-purple flowers. One of the most beneficial annual plants for all beneficial insects including lacewings.
Nettles
Aphid nursery
Hosts aphid colonies that attract lacewing egg-laying females and provide honeydew for adults. Essential in any wildlife garden.
Marigold (single)
Adult nectar
Long-flowering annual. Open single forms accessible. Plant near vulnerable crops to encourage egg-laying nearby.
Angelica
Adult nectar
Large biennial umbellifer. Hollow stems after flowering provide overwintering sites. Dual-purpose plant for lacewings.

Positioning matters as much as plant selection. A flowering strip or patch placed immediately adjacent to a vulnerable crop – a row of beans, a rose bed, a brassica bed – brings adult lacewings into close proximity with exactly the aphid colonies they are looking for when choosing egg-laying sites. Lacewing females are cued to lay near honeydew sources, and a patch of phacelia or dill between the aphid colony and the rest of the garden creates a concentration effect that establishes larvae where they are most useful. This is the principle behind companion planting strips in vegetable gardens, and it works with lacewings just as it does with hoverflies and parasitic wasps.

Amazon Lacewing garden essentials – UK picks

Lacewing House / Insect Hotel

★★★★★

~£14

View on Amazon

Phacelia Tanacetifolia Seeds

★★★★★

~£6

View on Amazon

Native Wildflower Seed Mix

★★★★☆

~£8

View on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Prices correct at time of publishing.

Overwintering habitat and lacewing houses

Overwintering survival is the critical bottleneck for lacewing populations in UK gardens. Adults of the common green lacewing spend winter in a state of diapause – a form of dormancy triggered by shortening day length in late summer. They seek out dry, sheltered spots that remain frost-free: the hollow stems of dead umbellifers, the rough bark of trees, dense ivy, gaps in stone walls, unheated sheds and log piles. Gardens that remove all dead plant material in autumn, clear ivy from walls and eliminate log piles actively reduce the overwintering capacity that determines how large the next season’s lacewing population can be.

Overwintering site quality – rated for lacewings
Hollow stems of fennel, angelica and other umbellifers left standing through winter
Excellent
Dense ivy on walls or fences – warm microclimate, consistently sheltered
Excellent
Dedicated lacewing house with corrugated card or straw rolls – placed 1-2m high, south or east facing
Good
Unheated shed or garage with small gaps for entry – provides reliable frost-free shelter
Good
Log pile in a partially shaded corner – bark crevices shelter lacewings and many other beneficial species
Good
Fully cleared garden with no hollow stems, no ivy and hard surfaces throughout – nothing to shelter in
None

Dedicated lacewing houses – commercially available wooden boxes filled with corrugated card, straw rolls or hollow bamboo tubes – provide a targeted overwintering resource and are effective when positioned correctly. Height matters: lacewing houses should be placed at 1-2 metres above ground, sheltered from prevailing rain and facing south or east to benefit from morning warmth in spring. A house facing full north rarely attracts occupants. The corrugated card or straw filling should be replaced each spring after adults have departed, as old material accumulates moisture and can harbour pathogens. A lacewing house is a supplement to natural habitat, not a substitute for it – gardens with hollow stems and dense ivy will always support larger lacewing populations than those relying on artificial structures alone.

Garden management for lacewings

The garden management decisions that most benefit lacewings are almost identical to those that benefit hoverflies, ground beetles and other beneficial insects – which is unsurprising given that these species share the same habitat requirements at similar life stages. The overarching principle is that a degree of structural complexity and seasonal untidiness creates the layered habitat that all these species need, while an aggressively manicured garden – however attractive it may look to human eyes – is effectively a biological desert for invertebrates that overwinter in plant stems, leaf litter and bark.

Management choices – impact on lacewings
Harms
Cutting back all hollow stems in September or October removes the overwintering sites used by most of the season’s lacewing adults
Helps
Delay the cutback until late February or early March. Adults have left overwintering sites by then and pupae have already hatched
Harms
Using broad-spectrum insecticides on aphid colonies kills lacewing eggs and larvae feeding within them before they have time to control the infestation
Helps
Tolerate light aphid colonies for 2-3 weeks and check for lacewing eggs on stalks before taking any action. Natural control is often already underway
Harms
Removing ivy from walls and fences – one of the most important overwintering and foraging habitats available to lacewings and many other species
Helps
Allow ivy to grow on at least one wall or fence. Trim only in late winter after overwintering species have departed. Ivy in flower in autumn is a critical late nectar source
Harms
Using outdoor lighting throughout the night – lacewings are strongly attracted to light and prolonged light exposure disrupts their navigation and breeding behaviour
Helps
Use motion-triggered or timer-controlled garden lighting rather than continuous illumination. Amber-spectrum LEDs are less disruptive to nocturnal insects than white or blue-white light

Lacewing populations respond to garden improvements within a single season. A garden that introduces a patch of umbellifers, delays its autumn cutback and provides a lacewing house or some ivy-clad wall space will see adult lacewings visiting within weeks of the flowers opening. Larvae will be present on nearby plants wherever aphid colonies exist. By the second season, with overwintering success improved, populations are typically noticeably higher and the pest control benefit measurably greater. The return on a small investment of habitat and management restraint is rapid and self-sustaining.

⚠️

Lacewing eggs are easy to destroy accidentally. The distinctive stalked eggs are placed individually on fine silken threads attached to plant stems, usually among or near aphid colonies. They are small – about 1mm long – and pale green or white. When hand-removing aphids by pinching or washing, check the stem carefully first. Removing aphids from a stem that carries lacewing eggs removes the very predators that would otherwise control the colony within a week. If eggs are present, leave the colony and check again in five to seven days for hatching larvae.

Amazon Lacewing garden essentials – UK picks

Lacewing House / Insect Hotel

★★★★★

~£14

View on Amazon

Phacelia Tanacetifolia Seeds

★★★★★

~£6

View on Amazon

Native Wildflower Seed Mix

★★★★☆

~£8

View on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Prices correct at time of publishing.